This week will be about very special chronographs, each with their own distinctive features. The triple calendar Heuer and the Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph Sharkhunter both boast an indisputable rarity, in addition to their great aesthetics, and were obvious candidates from Ebay. When it came to the Zenith A271 and the Bulova reference 31000, the unusual color of their dials really stood out and made them prime candidates for a mention in Bring A Loupe.
A Heuer Triple Calendar Reference 2547In terms of vintage Heuer, Carreras and Autavias garner most of the attention, but pieces like this one show that the brand's mastery of chronograph wristwatches existed well before the 1960s. This triple calendar chronograph impresses with excellent legibility, and the respectable 38mm size of its case. These replica watches are also exceedingly rare, with very few remaining examples spotted by collectors. There is also some controversy on the exact serial number of this watch ?the prevailing opinion is that the 2923 engraved on the inner side of the caseback is a parts number, with the actual reference number being either 2547 or 2543, depending whether the case is waterproof or not.
The present watch does exhibit a screw back caseback, and was therefore identified on Heuer-dedicated website OnTheDash as an example of the elusive reference 2547. As its layout hints, this watch relies on the Valjoux 72C, C standing for the calendar added to the chronograph complication of a standard Valjoux 72. The case looks unpolished, with sharp edges to its lugs, while the dial only presents minor aging marks.
This rare Heuer Triple Calendar can be found on Ebay, with current bidding close to $7,900.
ADVERTISEMENT A Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph SharkhunterThe Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph is something of a legend in diving circles, and not only for its excellent credentials (diving chronographs being an unusual proposition to begin with). The T. Graph was indeed the watch that astronaut Gene Cernan famously owned, and the advertising for the 200 T. Graph promised nothing less than "perfect timing" to any sportsmen. You might also remember Jason Heaton's article on the Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph Searambler, in which he highlighted the coolness and rarity of these chronographs.
The difference between the Searambler and the Sharkhunter (bonus point for those awesome names) lies in the dial color: silver for the former, black for the later. Note that both come with amazing sub-register styling, and that the third version, the Professional, unsurprisingly sports an orange dial, a signature color for Doxa given its outstanding underwater legibility. The manual winding chronograph caliber is correctly described in the listing as a caliber 287 ?it's a rebranded version of the reputable Eberhard caliber 310-82, with column-wheel construction and date indicator at 6 o'clock.
This Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph is listed on Ebay for $17,850.
A Zenith Chronograph Reference A271, With Grey DialIt is hard to not love the 1960s Zenith reference A271; its bi-compax dial is beautifully balanced, and it has wonderfully refined applied indexes and a tastefully discreet logo. This chronograph was offered with several different dials, the grey one being a personal favorite of mine. At 38mm, the size is just perfect, and the no-lume configuration allows the wearer to focus on what matters most here: the chronograph complication.
The dial of the present example seems well preserved, although some light blemishes can be seen in the hour counter. The crown bears the Zenith logo but this logo is very likely from after the production date of the watch; the star symbol would be expected there given the time period in which the watch was made, so there is little doubt that the current crown is a replacement part. Its chronograph movement, the caliber 146D, stems from a Martel ebauche that Universal Genève also favored; it is said by the seller to have been recently serviced, and comes with a 12-month guarantee.
An Italian dealer listed this Zenith A271 for $3,767.
A Bulova Chronograph Reference 31000, With Blue DialThis Bulova sums up pretty well what the late 1960s and 1970s brought to watchmaking: some very unusual case shapes (some would go so far as to call them funky) but also some beautiful blue dials as evidenced by many Patek Philippes of that time. The blue sunburst dial of this Bulova is undoubtedly its most catchy feature, especially in this reverse panda configuration.
As with many vintage Bulova, the date code engraved on the caseback (N0) allow us date the production of this watch to 1970, while the M9 engraving on the 14EB movement bridge points to an assembly in 1969 for the movement. The blue dial is described as near-perfect, and this is confirmed by many macro photos in the listing. The watch comes mounted on a generic Jubilee-style bracelet that looks almost as good as the Kreisler Stelux original piece.
The dealer Watchsteez offers this Bulova 31000 for $900.
A Diverse Selection Ranging From A 500 Takano To A 25000 Replica Rolex GMT Retailed By Tiffany 822